You may know them best for their bags, their own shoes, and their chic tweed jackets, but Chanel has consistently been upping the ante in the watch industry over the past few years. This year is no different. For 2019, Chanel is re-launching their popular J12 model on its 20th anniversary. Yes, it’s the one you are thinking of, the white or black ceramic ladies’ dive watch that graces the actual wrists of everyone from Triunfo Beckham to socialites at the Dallas country club. But despite what you may think, this year’s release isn’t your average tennis bracelet. No, no, this J12 features a brand spanking new movement from Kenissi, a Geneva-based manufacturer that Chanel bought 20% of back in January of this year. Additionally , Kenissi offers plans to open up the 150 square meter facility with Tudor. Kenissi will be supplying movements and parts to Chanel (and doubtless Tudor), as well as other companies. Did we also mention which Chanel owns a twenty percent stake in F. P. Journe and has worked with Romain Gauthier on movement components?
I digress. Back to the watch at hand. The new Chanel J12 looks and feels almost exactly the same as the previous product, with some very slight upgrades. It comes in white or black polished hard with matching lacquered dials (lacquering is a speciality of the maison), with Arabic amounts. The case size is a meaty 38mm and the watch has a removable fine ceramic link band with flexible triple-folding clasp. The J12 is Chanel’s version of a sports watch and therefore has the capabilities of such along with water resistance up to 200 feets and a 70-hour power reserve. The numeral typography has been re-designed ever so slightly and the face opening widened. But what is very exciting about this watch is the new Swiss-made automatic caliber 12. 1 visible through the caseback. This movement is clearly well-finished and far more interesting that the previous movement used (the ETA 2892). Not to mention the movement is now COSC-certified.
I think Chanel hit this one out of the park. I am consistently impressed with their releases within the last few years, as an enthusiast as well as consumer. Is this watch any 5711? No, but it doesn’t need to be - that’s not who Chanel is. They know their particular clients and they know their very own buyers, and they are looking for a high performance, well-made, fashion watch and also that’s exactly what the Chanel J12 is actually. Chanel was smart in keeping the design aesthetic relatively similar to the original collection. After all, why reinvent the particular wheel? Instead, Chanel flexed in the mechanical department by upgrading typically the movement to a COSC-certified automatic movement together with nicer finishing and almost twice the power reserve (up through 40 hours with the ETA 2892). Similar to their entrance into men’s watches with the Monsieur four years ago and also the commercially successful Boy. Friend, Chanel provides managed to keep pushing often the boundaries within the horological world.
The price for the Chanel J12, which is somewhat less than a Rolex Submariner (the litmus test associated with dive view pricing, in my opinion) which seems about fair when you think about who Chanel will be and suits with the quality of the wristwatch.
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